There are various layers to the skin, each serving a different purpose. The moisture barrier—also known as the acid mantle or stratum corneum—provides critical protection for skin. It acts as the first line of defence, keeping environmental stressors including bacteria, pollutants and irritants out and locks in hydration. It is estimated that at least 75 per cent, and possibly as much as 90 per cent, of the UK population is dehydrated.
How to tell when the moisture barrier is compromised
When the moisture barrier is healthy, epidermal cells are packed tightly to prevent water loss. This is similar to the way mortar fills in the gaps between bricks. It’s much more difficult for anything to enter or exit the skin when there is a solid line of defence. The more the moisture barrier is compromised, the more room there is in between skin cells for moisture to escape and bacteria to enter. If skin feels tight, itchy, or abnormally sensitive, the moisture barrier is likely damaged. A sure sign of a damaged acid mantle is when even products that a patient has perviously used with no issues, begin to cause sensitivity or reactions.
Preventing moisture barrier damage
Nothing disrupts the stratum corneum quite like over-exfoliation. Acids may be having a moment, but they shouldn’t be used recklessly. Chemical and physical exfoliation can be incredibly effective but should be used with care—if the skin is particularly sensitive, exfoliation should be avoided. Colder weather can also adversely affect the moisture barrier, so moisturiser use can be increased when the temperature drops to help avoid dry, dehydrated skin.
Rebalancing the moisture barrier
Stop exfoliating (chemical and physical) and focus on repairing the skin. Switch to gentle products that use emollients to not only strengthen the skin but also hydrate and seal in moisture, such as:
• Phyto-Active Toning Mist: Created to deeply hydrate and help prevent water loss by reinforcing skin’s protective barrier. Use to rehydrate throughout the day or to prep skin for serum and moisturiser.
• Vita E Essential Cream: A true medium-weight moisturiser that helps strengthen damaged skin, while also calming irritation and redness.
• Barrier Balm: Known and loved by our professional community, Barrier Balm is essential for providing intense hydration, especially to chapped areas like the nose, lips, cuticles, and elbows.
• Restorative Mask: A nutrient-rich mask that helps restore skin’s strength and elasticity with the use of antioxidants and other conditioning ingredients.
• Be patient. Repairing skin damage takes time and the more gentle you are with the skin the faster results will become apparent.